Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa (circa 1971-73 - 25 September 1996) is a mountain guide, climber, and Sherpa porter from Nepal, best known for his work as Sirdar climbing for Mountain Frog Scott Fischer's expedition to Everest in Season semi 1996, when a strange storm caused the death of eight climbers from several expeditions, considered one of the worst disasters in the history of climbing Mount Everest. Despite the controversy over his actions during the expedition, Lopsang is highly respected in the mountain climbing community, having reached the summit of Everest four times. Lopsang was killed in an avalanche in September 1996, while again on an expedition to climb Everest for what would be the fifth ascent.
Video Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa
Prestasi Mountaineering
Outside of his work on the ill-fated 1996 Everest Spring Expedition, Lopsang is a respected porter and guide with extensive Himalayan mountain experiences, including:
- Summit, Mount Everest with Nepalese expedition, Spring 1993
- Summit, Cho Oyu with Japanese expedition, Fall 1993
- Camp 4, Mount Everest, Japanese expedition, Winter 1993
- Summit, Mount Everest, Sagarmatha Environmental expedition, Spring 1994
- Peak, Mount Everest, New Zealand expedition, Spring 1995, led by Rob Hall
- Summit, Broad Peak, Scott Fischer's party, Summer 1995
- Summit, Mount Everest, Scott Fischer's party, Spring 1996 (3 hours at the top)
Lopsang reached the summit of Everest four times in four years, all without additional oxygen. During his career, Lopsang has worked as a climber and guided Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, two expedition leaders who eventually died on Everest in the tragedy of May 10, 1996.
Maps Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa
Spring 1996 Everest Disaster
In 1996, Lopsang has developed a reputation as a strong climber and capable guide, partly by his experience in helping guide several successful expeditions with Rob Hall, the leader of a significant Himalayan expedition. Scott Fischer, another recognized Himalayan expedition leader, has set up a new venture, Mountain Madness, and planned a guided commercial expedition to Everest for spring 1996. Fischer, who is familiar with the work and achievements of Lopsang, hired Lopsang to lead the sherpas and help his client as Sirdar for the Everest expedition.
During the spring and fall of the 1996 Everest climbing season, fifteen climbers died on the mountain, making it the deadliest year in Everest history. Eight of them died on May 11 alone. Disaster gained widespread publicity and raised questions about the commercialization of Everest.
Journalist Jon Krakauer, on the assignment of the Outside magazine, was a member of one of the affected expeditions, and subsequently published the best-selling book Into Thin Air, which was related to his experience. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide to the Fischer expedition whose actions were criticized by Krakauer, co-authored a rebuttal book entitled The Climb. The dispute sparked a debate within the climbing community for the proper role of the Everest climbing guide, centering on the actions of climbers and guides from the top parties of these two expeditions, who climbed together during the final and determined the decisive peak.
In this controversy, Lopsang's actions during the summit as, like everyone else, were under surveillance. Before the peak attack on May 10, he had brought enormous equipment, including "30 pounds of personal belongings of other members," and that sometimes he had helped closely Sandy Pittman (a journalist member of the expedition's report for NBC via email delivery sent by satellite phone and computer), using the "short string" technique . Lopsang then explains that he himself made such a decision, thus providing assistance to any team member who "has trouble" to ensure that all members of the group will have a good chance of reaching the top. Lopsang acknowledged that on this day of decisive summit, he suffered from vomiting and fatigue, which Krakauer described as a symptom of fatigue; but Lopsang explains, "I've been over 8,000 meters so many times, every time I throw up.That's just something I do.That's nothing.I have done it on all successful expeditions, when leading or following. I, II, etc. To me, it has nothing to do with altitude sickness. "
At the end of May 10, when bad weather closed, Scott Fischer reached Lopsang, waiting for him near the summit. Fischer and Lopsang started their descendants in bad weather, when Rob Hall and Doug Hansen climbed to the top. Lopsang sends Fischer down the mountain and waits for Hall and Hansen to finish the summit. Lopsang reported that after ensuring that Hall and Hansen had climbed safely and started to descend, he quickly descended to reach Fischer, apparently later in some difficulties. Lopsang then "dragged physically" Fischer sick from the South Summit "until he could not go any further", and waited along with him and Makalu Gau (a climber from another expedition also stuck in a storm) for several hours, until finally Fischer urged Lopsang to go and down alone. Gau was eventually rescued by other Sherpas; Fischer did not seem to move any further before he died at Everest.
Uncle Lopsang, Ngawang Topche Sherpa, also working on the 1996 Mountain Frenzy Expedition, fell ill and was evacuated by helicopter from Everest shortly before the summit's conquered bid, suffering severe cases of high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). At the hospital, Ngawang remained paralyzed in Kathmandu, never recovering, and eventually died on June 6.
Expedition September 1996
In the fall of 1996, Lopsang returned to Everest as a guide, working for a Japanese expedition. On September 25, 1996, a major avalanche erupted during the ascent on the southeast ridge route in the area between Camp III at the top of Lhotse's face, and Camp IV at South Col, the starting point for the final peak drive. An avalanche killed Lopsang; the sherpa guides Dawa; and a French climber, Yves Bouchon.
Personal life
Lopsang comes from Beding, Nepal. He married, with a five-month-old child, at the time of his death.
See also
- Summit list of Mount Everest several times to the top
- List of people who died climbing Mount Everest
Note
^ "Short-roping" is a technique in which one climber helps the other (usually done to get off to a safe place with a climber in distress ) using a lanyard type, or literally "lanyard", connecting the two. In this case, "short-roping" is used to help a healthy client, albeit weaker, by pulling climbers up the mountain during the last ascent. In his book Into Thin Air , Krakauer was very critical of the use of this technique in such circumstances and he cited Neal Beidleman's assessment guide about the technique as "looking awkward and quite dangerous" for the two climbers involved.
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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