Stone washing is a textile-making process used to provide newly manufactured, obsolete (or worn) fabric garments. Washing the stones also helps to improve the softness and flexibility of rigid and rigid fabrics such as canvas and denim.
This process uses large stones to make the rags of the fabric being processed. Clothes are placed in large horizontal industrial laundry washers that are also filled with large stones. As the cleaning cylinder rotates, the fabric fibers are repeatedly pounded and beaten when the rock falls to the pedal inside the drum and falls back into the fabric.
A number of people and organizations claim to have created stone washing. According to Levi Strauss & amp; Co., Donald Freeland, an employee of the Great Western Garment Company (later acquired by Levi's), invented the denim "stone washer" in the 1950s. Inventor Claude Blankiet has also been credited for having invented the technique in the 1970s. Edwin jeans company claims to have discovered the technique in the 1980s. It is commonly accepted that the French stylist Marithà © FranÃÆ'§ois Girbaud is the inventor of stone washing industrialization (the "Stonewash" technique).
Video Stone washing
Stonewashed jeans
Stonewashed jeans are jeans that have been treated to produce a faded and worn out appearance. This is usually done by washing jeans with a pumice stone in a rotating drum, or also by using chemicals to create an appearance without using a rotating drum. The expansion costs of pumice imports from Italy, Greece and Turkey led to extensive mining of pumice deposits in California, Arizona and New Mexico, triggering negative responses from American ecological groups. Reduction in the use of pumice and the increasing disposal of chemically polluted residues triggered the search for new methods, in particular the use of alternative materials or processing machines and the use of cellulase enzymes. Stonewashed jeans were a popular fashion trend of the 1970s, before denim of commercial acid leaching (discussed below) was introduced in the 1980s. In the 2000s, stonewashed jeans were very depressed, with previously made holes, fraying edges and widespread fading caused by sandblasting.
Claude Blankiet with American Garment Finishers from Texas promotes the use of cellulase enzymes in the finishing industry. Cellulase has been used in pulp, food processing industries and is currently in biomass fermentation for biofuel production. Cellulase is produced mainly by fungi, bacteria and protozoa that catalyze cellulose hydrolysis. Since the enzymes decompose cellulose fibers, this improves the appearance of the characteristics that jeans have been obscured with stones (and eliminates or reduces the use of natural pumice). Choosing the most appropriate type of enzyme and its application for aging jeans is the key to success. American Garment Finishers used a new cellulolytic agent patented in 1991 by Novo Nordisk of Denmark because of its safer effect on cotton fibers. Other finishes use Trichoderma acid mushroom enzymes, acting cheaper and faster, but result in tearing of excessive fabric and eyelashes back as the pockets of jeans are lifted.
Maps Stone washing
Acne-washed jeans
Initial example
Denim washed with acid (mistaken because no acid is actually used in the process), washed with pumice and chlorine to whiten almost white. California surfers and 1960s counterparts appreciate Levi 501 and other jeans that have been bleached by saltwater due to their original "live" appearance. Because natural clothes take weeks, or even months, it is not uncommon to hang some new jeans to fade in the sun, then change them to fade the other side. For many surfers, this process only takes too long, so they speed up the process by soaking the jeans in a diluted bleach and some beach sand. Simple chlorine bleach and muriic acid are available at the time (and still are), as they are used to sterilize swimming pools.
Mainstream popularity
During the early 1980s, skinheads and punk rockers would sprinkle bleach on their jeans and combat jackets for a mottled effect similar to camouflage. This early faded look, known as snow leaching, tends to retain the original dark blue dye around the seam and waist. One of the first companies to sell "pre washed" jeans (as they were called), was Guess inc. in 1981. Although associated with punk fashion, however, the faded effect was copied by many individuals unrelated to the subculture, who dipped their jeans in diluted bleach and decorated it with metal buttons, embroidery and rhinestones.
The modern process of acid leaching was patented in Italy by the Rifle jeans company in February 1986. They accidentally dropped jeans and pumice dampened with a weak bleach solution in a waterless washer. American Garment Finishers (AGF) from Texas industrialized the process in North America in June 1986 and offered it to Levi Strauss. Shortly after, AGF improved the technique by using Potassium Permanganate instead of bleach, achieving a more natural look that is much less damaging to cotton fibers. Other abrading materials such as marble sand or expanded glass foam are also used as an alternative to pumice stone (see stone washing). Special areas of jeans, shirts, and jackets are also washed with acid by spraying a solution of bleach or potassium permanganate to simulate wear patterns. Very popular all over the world from 1986 to mid nineties, still used by current fashion designers.
Reject and revival
Acid wash jeans, worn with a perfecto jacket or jacket motorcycle popularized by hard rock, country villains and heavy metal bands in the late 1980s. Glam metal fans favored "crushed denim," and jeans that have been whitened almost white. The washed snow jeans, which retain more of the original blue dye, remained popular among grunge fans during the mid-1990s, until eventually replaced by the dark shades of denim associated with hardcore punk and hip-hop fashion. Acid washed jeans made a comeback in the late 2000s among young women, due to the revival of the 1980s and 1990s that continued into the 2010s.
See also
- 1980s in fashion
- 2000s in fashion
- Punk Mode
- Heavy metal mode
- Washing machine
- Depressing
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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